[LYNX Enhanced]


The Triumph Spitfire

Charging System Upgrade

from

Generator to Alternator


- NOTE -
If your car has positive ground change it to negative ground before doing this upgrade!

Overview

There are a variety of ways to do this conversion; the one described here allows the generator system to be reinstated with minimal work, since no changes are made to the original wiring.

Items you will need

The first thing to get is a Lucas 16ACR alternator of the type fitted to Spitfire IV/1500s, Toledos, or 1300/1500 Dolomites from about 1973 on; along with the mounting bracket, spacer, hinge bolts and adjustment arm. If the alternator you locate is in doubtful condition, exchange it for a rebuilt one.
There are two versions of this alternator: the more common one has internal sensing, where the two large terminals are connected together internally; the rarer one has external sensing where the terminals are run separately to the internal regulator. It doesn't matter which version you have, the upgrade will work for both types.

Other things you'll need:

AWG means American Wire Gage, in case you were curious.
Naturally, a selection of tools will be required such as screwdrivers, wrenches, a soldering iron, etc.

How to do it

As usual with electrical work, start by disconnecting the battery. Then pull off the brown/yellow and brown/green generator wires ( see original wiring diagram)and remove the generator and all its mountings. Tie up the old wires to the nearby loom with nylon ties or similar. Install the alternator mountings, the alternator, and the new fan belt.
The length of the new fan belt should be such that the alternator adjustment slot is not at the end of its travel, and you should be able to get your spark plug wrench on the number 1 plug. A good parts store will be able to supply the next size up or down as required.
Next, wire the alternator. (see modified wiring diagram) Connect the thick brown wire to the large center terminal in the alternator plug and the thin brown wire to the other large terminal. Run these two wires in parallel and connect their free ends to the ring terminal. Be sure the wires are long enough to reach the battery side of the starter solenoid, allowing some slack for engine movement. Crimp and solder both ends for really good connections. The thick wire carries very high currents; bad connections will cause localised heating, excessive voltage drop, and may prevent the system from working at all. Attach the ring terminal to the battery side of the solenoid. Connect the new small (yellow?) wire to the small terminal on the alternator plug and run it along the loom up to the regulator unit. Push the plug into the back of the alternator and fasten the retaining clip. Secure the new wires to the loom for neatness and safety.
Now, wire the regulator. (see modified wiring diagram) First, to keep the regulator from operating, pull off the black wire connected to the 'E' terminal. Remove the small brown/yellow wire from the 'WL' terminal. Fit the Lucar blade terminal to the yellow alternator wire and connect it to the brown/yellow wire. Cover them with electrician's tape or sleeving to prevent them from shorting against anything. That's it!

Testing

Before testing, go back over absolutely everything. When the engine speed rises above idle, the ignition warning light should go out and there should be about 14 volts at the battery.


Disclaimer
If you decide to do this conversion, please double check your work. There is a great risk of serious damage or even fire if something is done incorrectly.
Should you feel unsure of your ability to do this kind of work, get the help of an expert.

Edited by Gary Schlosser, 19Jan97
Latest update 22Feb97
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